Saturday, September 3, 2011

Kandy to Nuwra Eliya - The ever memorable mountain train journey

We had quite an early start that day (09 Jun 11) since we had to take the scenic train journey from Peredenia Railway Station. We were informed at the reception that there was a connection train from Kandy that departs at 0715 hrs. So we took a rickshaw to the railway station which was a 5 minutes drive from our hotel. Here in Sri Lanka people are very hospitable and always address tourists with a gentle smile. We reached the railway station well in advance, so we thought of roaming around. We gave a visit to the Station master’s office to have a word with him. He was so happy to hear that we were from India and took us around to show old pictures of trains during British times. The ticket counter normally opens only at 0700 hrs, but he took us inside the office and issued ticket straight away and showed us our train. People like him are the real brand ambassadors of Sri Lankan tourism and we have to learn a lot from them even though they are a small nation with an average economy. The station, trains etc. looked like the ones in India, yet they stand much high in terms of cleanliness and punctuality. We were the only passengers in our compartment and the journey was less than 15 minutes to Peredenia Station. On reaching there we saw a large number of tourists (foreign as well as domestic) eagerly waiting for the train from Colombo which goes to Badulla through the mountains, tea plantations, Eucalyptus woods, vegetable fields etc. We had already booked seats in Observatory class , which is a special compartment built out of wood and it has some 40 seats with large glass window which allows us to enjoy the stunning views of the valleys and mountains. The rest of the compartments are like the ones we see in Indian trains with large bench seats facing each other. This train journey can be called the high light of Sri Lanka tour and all credit goes to British engineering, foresight and determination to build something like this 100 years back, that too with limited technological support. The train departed at 0745 Hrs and it is about 5 hrs travel time to reach our destination- Nanu Oya, another hill station near the famous Old British Hill station- Neuwra Eliya. This is one of the best train journeys I have done in my life. So far, my favourite was the journey from Mettuppalayam- Ooty in the state of Tamil Nadu. This is more refreshing as we pass through unexploited, unpolluted pieces of land and rarely can we see housing lanes and rest of it is lush greenery and mist. We passed through endless plantations of tea and eucalyptus and the temperature during the day is below 15 C. Some of the stations en route still had the old English names like Great Western and we had garden fresh tea and snacks from some station. When it drizzled in between it was such a great sight to see the mountains and valleys fully covered with mist. I had a great time with my SLR and managed to get some decent snaps of the flora and fauna. We were late by 2 hrs due to some work on the track and we reached Nanu Oya by 1400 hrs. Our end destination for the day was 10 kms from Nanu Oya and we thought of hiring a rickshaw. But we were approached by a van driver who had come to drop some guest at station and he was going back alone to Neuwra Eliya. He agreed to take us for SL Rs. 300, which was a good deal. The driver gave us a short briefing about this place.
Nuwaraeliya is very famous for its climate; some identify it as ‘little England’. The lowest temperature of Sri Lanka is recorded every day at Nuwaraeliya. Nuwraeliya has very cool climate which some days drop to 1 - 2 degrees of Celsius. Mini snow falls also occur in February and the place is covered by mist all throughout the year. History says Nuwara Eliya was discovered by a hunting party led by Dr. John Davy in 1818. The British governor at the time, Sir Edward Barnes, was told about this and subsequently decided to take residence there, soon created a health resort which then became internationally renowned. Nuwara Eliya is decidedly English in some ways (houses, gardens and places names) and was actually planned to be an English village by a pioneering Englishman, Sir Samuel Baker in the mid 19th Century.The driver dropped us at Glendover Hotel, a 100 year old nice colonial bungalow with nice lawns and tall old trees around. Neuwra Eliya is a planned town developed by British with a massive lake in the middle, nice colonial bungalows, golf course, race course, clubs etc. Nowhere in the city limits can we see any tall new structures and its old glory has been maintained till date. People all over Sri Lanka are very conscious about keeping places clean and you won’t find any rubbish on either side of the roads. In every 100 metres the municipality have placed waste bins and people use them regularly. I felt ashamed of our much acclaimed hill stations like Ooty, Munnar etc which are overcrowded with buildings and heaps of waste everywhere. Even though there were many tourist sports like waterfalls, viewpoints nearby we thought of skipping all these and went for a 3 hr walk to the lake and had snacks along with Lion Beer, the famous Lankan beer. Later we went to see the bus station and enquired about bus service to our next destination-Tissamaharama. We were told that there was no direct bus to that place and we had to get down at Wirawalla bus stop and take the bus to Matara and get down at Tissamaharama. Altogether we had around 7 hrs of long journey on a local bus tomorrow and we were asked to be at the bus station by 0830 hrs, so that we could comfortably keep our luggage and occupy our seats. We returned to our hotel, had a hot shower in the chilling weather and we went for dinner at a nice Indian fine dining restaurant near to our hotel and the food was just awesome. Neuwra Eliya is my favourite destination in Sri Lanka and I wish to go there again as I’ve developed an affinity towards this place. Travellers from the UK will be particularly attracted by the architecture which is decidedly Victorian. Even modern buildings are built in the same fashion to preserve Nuwara Eliya's unique atmosphere.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Sri Lanka Darshan

When I thought of my maiden trip abroad, the destinations that came to my mind were New Zealand, Thailand, Malaysia and Sri Lanka. Finally I short listed NZ and planned everything so that I can visit my bros during the month of June 2011. My parents too were there on a 2months visit and we all planned for a family get together sometime mid-June. My eldest brother couriered me the sponsorship letter and other supporting documents for applying for my visa. Few days later, in the early hours of the morning I decided to postpone the NZ trip as I can visit it anytime as my brothers are there anyways. Then I decided to go ahead with Thailand. My close friends Sam and Kiran were ready to join me in the planning stage itself since I changed the destination. But the flight fares worked out to be very expensive, as tourist traffic from India is in its zenith during the months of June/July. Luckily my friend Anoop had visited Sri Lanka a few weeks back and he had only great things to share about that place. He had so much to say about this small dot island with classy blue beaches, virgin forests, wild life, scenic train journey through tea plantations etc. Sam had been to Sri Lanka for a very short visit and he too insisted on going to this place again. So we three finally decided to go ahead with Lanka and booked flight tickets in a way that Kiran will fly from Chennai and Sam and I from Cochin. We planned to backpack the country as Anoop gave us a detailed briefing about the places to visit, the bus connectivity between places, must-see sights etc. We redefined the word backpacking a bit by booking hotels in advance. I have travelled a lot and I know the difficulties in finding out hotels on the spot, as we will be tired after the day’s journey or we will have an early start the next day. Sam did all research on accommodation and we booked nice decent accommodation at each place to avoid later inconvenience.
June 12 arrived and the wait was over. We both boarded the flight to Sri Lanka and it was a pleasant 1 hr journey to a foreign land- Sri Lanka. We had a not-so-good breakfast on board and landed at Colombo Airport safely. We didn’t have to take advance visa for Sri Lanka and visa (30 Days Permit) was stamped on arrival at the Immigrations counter at the airport. I believe the rule has changed now and now you have to apply for VISA online in advance. Kiran arrived early in the morning after a short search, we met him at the exit gate. We were told that there are buses operated by Airport Authority to the nearest bus station for free and we waited for 30+ minutes to get our bus to the nearest bus station which was less than a kilometre away.
The sight outside the airport was disappointing as everything looked exactly like Kerala or Tamil Nadu: from people to shops, buses to roads, buildings to terrain. We were dropped at the bus station and we checked the bus timings to our first destination Kandy. I was totally disappointed as I didn’t have a feeling that I was in a new country. After another not -so-good lunch from a local restaurant we boarded a local bus to Kandy. We were told that it would take 4-5 hrs to reach Kandy. After keeping our backpacks at the boot space we started our journey to Kandy. First 3 hours of the journey was so boring as we had the same feeling as we driving through country sides or midlands of Kerala with neat concrete houses, paddy, tapioca and rubber plantation with small towns in between. I even told Kiran and Sam that our decision was wrong and wondered what we were going to do in the next 8 days. Anyway, the last one hour stretch of the trip was interesting as we were climbing the Ghats to reach our destination. We reached Kandy Bus stand by around 04 30 pm and took a rick to reach the hotel. On reaching Kandy our paradigm about this country started changing slowly as it was a nice old British town with colonial buildings with a massive lake in the middle and well planned roads with proper pedestrian lanes. Kandy is a Buddhist town and everywhere we can see Buddhist monks walking around in their saffron dress. The hotel we booked was interesting with good views of swimming pool and valley. We unpacked our bags, had a shower and decided to go for an evening walk to the town centre from the hotel. We intentionally avoided the famous monument of Kandy “The Tooth Relic Monastery” as we had to be in queue for hours and we weren’t that religious. The main purpose of opting Kandy for the first night’s stay was the next day’s exciting 5 hr train journey through mountains and tea plantations from Peredenia to Neuwra Eliya. We did some light shopping from ODEL ( a famous retail chain in Sri Lanka ) and bought a few essentials for our evening ‘brainstorming’ session. After 2 shots and a satisfying dinner we went for a nice swim in the pretty large pool there and it was an awesome feeling to be in pool with the temperature below 20 C. We all went to bed early as we should have an early start to catch the train from Peredenia railway station which is 5 kms from Kandy. Our perception about this small wonderful country changed by the end of the first day itself and the coming days were more exciting which you will read about in my next blog….till then take care and a have a safe day.